Isabel Cruz to open Barrio Star in Bankers Hill

Isabel Cruz strikes again. San Diego’s queen of fresh Mex plans to open a new restaurant in Bankers Hill called Barrio Star. The new spot will be at 5th and Nutmeg in the former home of Mukashi Sushi. This marks the fourth depot of Latin mouth-love for Cruz, who also owns Coffee Cup (La Jolla), Isabel’s Cantina (Pacific Beach) and Seaside Cantina (also in P.B.). But whereas those joints put an overt California twist on Latin traditions, Barrio Star is going to be her most Mexican Mexican yet.

“It’s going to be very authentic and healthy,” says the chef and cookbook author (Isabel’s Cantina, Random House), who plans to serve bowls of health food darlings like quinoa, barley and brown rice with good veggies (pass the collard greens). “I really love Mexican food, but I want to feel good after I eat it.” So, if you've inhaled a few martinis at Nunu's and require preventative grease medicine, head for your nearest taco hole. If hunting Mex that won't that won't spur a growth spurt of the wrong body parts, Barrio Star could soon be the call.

Cruz, along with business partner and fellow chef Todd Camburn, picked a choice location. With Hillcrest's price-per-square-foot reaching maximum gouge, Bankers Hill is looking like the new nibblespace, a la 30th Street in North Park. Barrio Star will join Cucina Urbana, Hane Sushi (a Sushi Ota spinoff), Avenue 5 and a coming-soon offshoot of Market in the burgh, which is just north of Downtown.

The chef will house-make everything—her famous tamales, plus corn tortillas for carne asada tacos, salsas, pozole and roasted chicken. Every day will feature a new grilled fish, and dinner will include a lime-cilantro marinated New York steak. Vegetarians won’t be relegated to the special-order cult, though. Cruz is crafting several vegan and vegetarian options, like jasmine rice and black beans.

The décor? Loud and bright, with a rose and flaming heart wall mural done by a local tattoo artist. A different artist from Portland—where Cruz owns two other restaurants, Dragonfly and Isabel—will create a mosaic cross for the space. Barrio Star will start out serving lunch and dinner, incorporating breakfast once the kitchen hits a groove. Seating capacity will be around 60. Targeted opening date: March 2010.

2706 5th Ave., Bankers Hill, isabelscantina.com.